A used accordion is only a good deal if the bellows, reeds and action are sound, and most damage hides inside where you cannot see it. Three checks decide most cases: the bellows test with no keys pressed, every note played on its own in both directions, and the smell when you open the case. Always weigh the asking price together with likely repair costs, because work on reeds, wax and valves belongs in an accordion repair shop.

Why buying a used accordion is tricky

An accordion contains hundreds of rods, levers, springs, seals, reeds and screws. Many parts are made of leather, felt, glue and wax, and these materials age over decades even with careful storage. The wax that holds the reed plates in the reed block hardens, plates can work loose, and the tone starts to rattle. Leather valves turn brittle and stop sealing. An instrument can look flawless and still need an expensive overhaul. Equally, a scuffed instrument with a healthy interior often plays better than a shiny one from a damp basement.

Plan on at least half an hour for the inspection and bring an experienced player if you can, the way you would bring a mechanic when buying a used car. Buyers who check alone most often miss notes that only fail in one bellows direction or on one register.

The bellows: a step-by-step leak test

The bellows is the engine of the instrument. A leak forces you to keep adding air, makes quiet passages unsteady, and can affect tuning because reeds respond differently when air is short.

  1. Close everything: Switch all registers off and leave the air release button alone. Do not press any keys or bass buttons.
  2. Self-opening test: Undo the bellows strap and let the bellows open slowly under its own weight by letting the bass side hang gently. A tight instrument opens noticeably reluctantly. If it falls open quickly, air is escaping.
  3. Push and pull: Gently compress and expand the bellows. You should feel firm, even resistance with no hiss. Repeat in both directions and with different amounts of force.
  4. Listen at the usual weak spots: Leaks tend to sit at fold creases, at the corners and where the bellows meets the treble and bass bodies, rather than on the flat panels. Hold your ear close, and run a hand along the folds, since a hand often feels escaping air better than an ear hears it.
  5. Cross-check while playing: A small leak sometimes only shows as needing to change bellows direction more often than you should. Hold a long, quiet chord and note how quickly the air runs out.
  6. Look at the bellows: Check for cracks, loose corner protectors, peeling paper folds and damage along the lower edge, where stress is highest.

A small leak at a fold crease is common on older instruments and not an automatic dealbreaker. It is a negotiating point, especially if the seller did not mention it. A badly damaged or generally porous bellows, however, is one of the costliest single items (see the pricing section).

Checking reeds and tuning

Play every note on the treble side individually, in both bellows directions, and repeat with each register on its own. Then play every bass and chord button. Make notes of what you notice.

  • Silent or weak notes: A single silent note can point to a stuck reed or a faulty leather valve. Many silent notes spread across the instrument suggest hardened valves and a substantial repair.
  • Slow response: A note that speaks late usually has a valve problem, dirt, or a problem with the reed itself.
  • Rattling and buzzing: This fits loose reed plates or hardened wax.
  • Out-of-tune notes: Notes clearly sharp or flat against their neighbors usually mean reeds that have drifted. On multi-reed instruments, the reeds in a register should sit together evenly. An unsteady, unintended wobble on individual notes points to deviations.
  • Overall picture: If only a few notes are off, a touch-up tuning is enough. If the whole instrument has drifted, a full tuning is due.

A tuner or tuning app helps document deviations. Keep in mind that instruments with musette tuning deliberately detune their reed ranks slightly against each other, as covered in the article on the cassotto tone chamber. How reed material matters is covered in steel vs. aluminum accordion reeds.

Valves, wax and the interior

The leather valves on the reed plates let air pass in one direction only. If they are stiff, curled or missing, the note will not speak or sounds thin. The wax that beds the reed plates into the reed block seals and holds the plates in place. On old instruments it turns brittle.

Looking inside means opening the case, which is not usually part of a viewing. For pricier instruments, ask whether a shop may take a look beforehand. Even without opening, you can spot warning signs: a musty smell, rust on visible metal parts, dust or lint around the register mechanism.

Action, keyboard, bass buttons and registers

  • Keyboard level: Lay a ruler across the white keys or sight along the keyboard. It should sit evenly flat. An uneven keyboard is laborious to correct and feels unpleasant to play.
  • Sticking and clicking: Every key and button should travel evenly, return cleanly and run quietly. Clicking suggests worn felts, sticky keys suggest dirt, moisture or broken springs.
  • Bass mechanism: The bass machine is especially complex. Test every button and every row. Buttons must not stay down, and each must produce a complete note or chord.
  • Registers: Every switch should click firmly into place and audibly change the sound. If a register does not switch, a reed rank often stays stuck on or off.
  • Size: Instruments under 80 basses limit the range and therefore the repertoire. 120 bass is the most common size, but 120s are heavy, and demand for them has cooled recently. How to choose the system (piano or button) is covered in button vs. piano accordion for beginners.

Straps, case, smell and accessories

Shoulder straps, bass straps and the case are cheap to replace but should be factored into the price. Quality straps run about $60 to $150 (as of Oct. 2026). More important than looks: straps must hold securely, because a failing strap drops an instrument weighing several kilos. Check the stitching and the points where straps meet the hardware.

On the body, look at corners, hardware and cracks. Scratches and small dings do not hurt the sound. A cracked or warped wooden body is a serious problem. The key question when opening the case: how does it smell? A musty, moldy or smoky odor points to moisture or long poor storage, often in a basement, garage or attic. Moisture damages leather, felt and wax throughout the instrument. With a clear mold smell, walking away is usually the right call.

Serial numbers, age and old accordions

For Hohner instruments, every model built after 1930 carries a serial number, which together with the model name can establish the build year. For other makers there is no freely available, uniform table, so the purchase receipt, model name and, when in doubt, a shop's opinion are the best routes.

There is no fixed age limit. Condition matters, not the build year: high-quality instruments last decades, simple models wear sooner. On very old instruments, leather, felt, glue and wax almost always need renewing, even if the instrument was barely played. The value of an old accordion depends less on age or decoration than on demand and actual playing condition. Pearloid finishes and rhinestones add little. More reliable than the seller's wish is a look at what comparable models actually sold for.

Price range: new, used and repairs

New accordions start around $1,200 (as of Oct. 2026), and used ones start around $200 depending on location. A functional used piano accordion for a beginner typically costs about $350 to $1,000 (as of Oct. 2026). A new bellows costs roughly $500 plus installation, and even apparently small bellows damage can lead to repair bills above $600. Shops quote tuning in different ways: some charge by the hour (about $50 per hour plus parts at one shop), some charge about $5 to $10 per reed plate for spot tuning with a minimum charge around $65 (as of Oct. 2026; practices vary, so get a quote for a full tuning). Some shops charge an appraisal fee of around $50, waived if you go ahead with repairs.

Shops generally cannot quote reliably without seeing the instrument, so get a written quote before you buy. Budget at least a few hundred dollars on top of the purchase price for any repair, and compare the total with a better-kept instrument. For other items, such as a full overhaul or valve replacement, prices vary by shop, get a quote.

What you can do yourself and what belongs in the shop

Do it yourself

  • Inspecting and test playing, as described above.
  • Gently cleaning the body and keys with a dry, soft cloth.
  • Checking straps and replacing them when needed.
  • Storing the instrument dry, at steady temperature and in its case, with the bellows strap closed when not in use.

Leave it to the shop

Tuning reeds, removing and re-waxing reed plates, replacing valves, sealing or rebuilding the bellows, and leveling the keyboard are specialist jobs. Tuning removes tiny amounts of material from the reed, and inexperienced attempts can ruin reeds permanently. Waxing means taking plates out and bedding them again, which takes tools, experience and a steady hand. Soldering and heat work do not belong in amateur hands either. You can recognize the need by silent or rattling notes, air loss and out-of-tune notes. Shops usually give prices only after looking at the instrument.

Fraud and safe payment

  • Do not be rushed: Time pressure, a suspiciously low price and photos with no detail are warning signs.
  • Payment method: Be wary of gift cards, wire transfers, cryptocurrency and payment apps with no protection, and of pressure to use them. A credit or debit card, which offers better dispute options, is safer, as is cash on pickup.
  • Overpayment scams: If you are selling, a buyer who sends a cashier's check for more than the price and asks you to wire back the difference is running a well-known scam.
  • Prefer pickup: You can inspect and play on the spot. For shipping, agree on a return option first.
  • Get claims in writing: Condition, repairs and accessories should appear in the listing or in messages.
  • Check that the price is plausible: Compare model and condition with other listings. Walk away from sellers who dodge questions about serial number or condition.
  • Dealers: Shops often offer a warranty and returns but charge more.

Common mistakes

  • Judging by looks and ignoring the interior.
  • Testing only one register or only one bellows direction.
  • Underestimating weight: children's models weigh under 3 kg (about 6.5 lb), full-size models 9 kg (about 20 lb) or more, which you notice after an hour of playing.
  • Shrugging off a musty smell.
  • Not factoring in repair costs and not negotiating.
  • Buying without company and without enough time.
  • Choosing an instrument under 80 basses and missing the repertoire later.

Test-play checklist

  1. Smell the case when you open it.
  2. Bellows test with no keys pressed and the air release closed.
  3. Play every treble note in both directions and in each register separately.
  4. Try every bass and chord button and watch for sticking.
  5. Check keyboard level with a ruler.
  6. Switch every register and compare the sound.
  7. Inspect straps, hardware, corners and body.
  8. Strap it on and play for a while: weight, seating, bellows changes.
  9. Note the serial number, model and proof of purchase.
  10. Write down the defects with a repair estimate and negotiate on them.